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EU
Enlargements
Textiles and clothing
The trade preferences extended to Central and East European countries
(CEECs) under the Europe Agreements (EAs) may span 5–7 years,
and multilateral liberalization in the most sensitive textiles and
clothing (T&C) products will probably not take place until the third
phase of the Multifibre Arrangement's abolition, in 2002–4. In
Discussion Paper No. 1004, Cristina Corado notes that T&C
producers in the CEECs have in part offset the negative effects of their
shortcomings in supply and marketing on production and employment by
undertaking more outward-processing trade (OPT) for EU firms seeking to
move labour-intensive stages of their production abroad. She maintains
that conventional measures of the structure and performance of trade do
not accurately reflect these firms' true competitiveness in Western
markets: OPT now accounts for two-thirds of their `exports' to the EU,
and the average quality is usually lower for `direct' imports
than for OPT, and this may be undermining the CEECs' T&C production.
Corado draws some lessons from Portugal's transition to full EU
membership for the development of EU–CEEC trade under the EAs.
Portugal attracted substantial OPT in the first two years, when it faced
fewer tariffs than `direct' imports, but this trade soon moved elsewhere
when firms' incentives changed. Whether OPT moves out of the CEECs –
to the former Soviet Union or beyond – once the bias against
`direct' exports no longer applies will largely depend on how their
labour costs change in the mean time. Also, EU trade policies also
current favour OPT over direct investment in the CEECs, which might rise
substantially as domestic markets grow and access to Western markets
improves. If the Commission adopts the proposed regulation to curtail
OPT outside the EU, however, the CEECs may be more vulnerable to OPT
exit when it ceases to enjoy its favoured status than Portugal was at
the equivalent stage; indeed, if it is applied strictly to protect
employment, the resulting diversion of OPT from the CEECs to EU South
may have a greater impact than the EAs themselves.
Textiles and Clothing Trade with Central and Eastern Europe:
Impact on Members of the EC
Cristina Corado
Discussion Paper No. 1004, August 1994 (IT)
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